Day 27: Truth Or Consequences

I couldn’t resist mak­ing a cou­ple more Roadfood-recommended stops in Tucson before head­ing toward Albuquerque. First was Le Cave’s bak­ery, which has been oper­at­ing since 1935. Strictly a pick-up-and-go kind of place, I bought a pump­kin empanada and a cin­na­mon twist for a drive-time snack. Next on my list was Gus Balon’s, a breakfast-and-lunch-only diner famous for their sweet rolls. Continue read­ing

Posted in The Big Trip | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off

Day 26: Gotta get out of this place

Since Tucson was only a cou­ple hours away, I took my time get­ting out of the hotel. I had a cou­ple of stops I wanted to make (Bevmo again for more beer I can’t get at home, and some­where for lunch), and when I pulled into the park­ing space at Bevmo, I hit the curb and tore a chunk out of my tire. Fortunately, I was near a tire shop, and blew almost the rest of my Vegas win­nings on a new set of Goodyears. Continue read­ing

Posted in The Big Trip | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Comments Off

Day 24: By the time I get to Phoenix

I awoke late, eager to get the hell out of Flagstaff. I made cof­fee, took a shower, and hit the road, stop­ping only for gas on the way out of town. It was a mere two hours and change to Scottsdale, the swanky Phoenix sub­urb where I’d decided to take advan­tage of the off-season rates offered at some of the nicer hotels for the chance to do some free­lance work, stay out of the heat, and get some much-needed rest. Since I wasn’t in a rush to get there, I decided to visit Sedona. Continue read­ing

Posted in The Big Trip | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | View Comments

Day 23: I know you’re gonna be grand

It’s a bit out of the way unless one is dri­ving Route 66, but I felt com­pelled to visit Winslow, Arizona, the town name-checked in The Eagles’ “Take It Easy”. I hadn’t had lunch before leav­ing Flagstaff, but dialed in a list of rec­om­men­da­tions on the GPS and found Darrell’s Root Beer Stand, a white-painted concrete-block struc­ture on a cor­ner in the mid­dle of a res­i­den­tial neigh­bor­hood that didn’t actu­ally have a good root beer, just Mug. Continue read­ing

Posted in The Big Trip | Tagged , , , , , , | Comments Off

Day 22: Arizona or Bust

When my alarm went off at 10, I scram­bled to get my things together and get out by the hotel’s 11AM check-out time. I real­ize that I’m some­what com­pul­sive when it comes to gam­bling, and I lost a tiny bit of my pre­vi­ous night’s win­nings at the same machine that had been so lucky the night before, ignor­ing the fact that light­ning wouldn’t strike twice. Still, I left with enough to pay for a good chunk of this trip so far, so I don’t feel too bad. Continue read­ing

Posted in The Big Trip | Tagged , , , , | Comments Off

Day 21: Somewhere around Barstow on the edge of the desert

I hadn’t had enough of Los Angeles, but for­ward motion was crit­i­cal to my jour­ney if I was going to make Las Vegas by the end of the day, given the places I wanted to go first.

It was push­ing 100 degrees as I made my way toward Joshua Tree National Park, near 29 Palms and, not coin­ci­den­tally, Joshua Tree, California. I don’t mythol­o­gize Gram Parsons the way some do, but my des­ti­na­tion deter­mined my music playlist for the early after­noon, all Gram and Byrds and Flying Burrito Brothers, for hours and hours. Continue read­ing

Posted in The Big Trip | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | View Comments

Day 20: Hooray for Hollywood

I woke to the sound of jack­ham­mers out­side again, stum­bled to break­fast in the lobby, and charted a course for Mulholland Drive to get a view of Los Angeles from above.

Los Angeles from above

Los Angeles from above

Continue read­ing

Posted in The Big Trip | Tagged , , , , , , | Comments Off

Day 19: To Live & Die (Laughing) In L.A.

Eager to escape the depress­ing Morro Bay, I started toward Hearst Castle for a tour, but dis­cov­ered that tick­ets started at $24 and, since I am noto­ri­ously cheap when it comes to such things, decided not to spend what rel­a­tively mea­ger cash I had on that excur­sion. Also, the weather was ter­ri­ble, so the exte­rior wouldn’t look nearly as attrac­tive as it does in the pho­tos on their web­site. So I pointed the car south again, en route to La Tolteca Tortilla Factory in Santa Barbara, an utterly fan­tas­tic Mexican place rec­om­mended by my friend Brad, who I didn’t get a chance to hook up with in San Francisco due to my gen­eral ill­ness. Continue read­ing

Posted in The Big Trip | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off

Day 18: PCH 1

Determined to at least visit City Lights before I left, I packed up the car, checked out of the hotel, and headed north (stop­ping at Bevmo to stock up on more 21st Amendment beer to carry home), only to be met by traf­fic at a dead stop. I knew I was near Candlestick Park, so I thought maybe there was a game today. A quick search on my Blackberry con­firmed that the 49ers played at 4:15. After I passed the exit for the sta­dium, traf­fic improved briefly before crawl­ing to a stop again. Another search con­firmed my fear: the Giants also had a home game at 1PM, so, regret­fully, I took the next exit and turned south. I wasn’t going to waste a day in traf­fic get­ting to a book­store, nor any­thing else down­town, so I set a course for Los Angeles that would take me down the Pacific Coast Highway, via Monterey and Big Sur.

I’d post pho­tos or video or some­thing, but it was more or less five hours of twists, turns, hills to climb up and coast down under an over­cast, foggy sky. I stopped briefly in Santa Cruz, where, mirac­u­lously, the skies had turned shock­ingly blue, but there was so much traf­fic near the beach and the board­walk that I decided to sol­dier on, since I was plan­ning on spend­ing at least a cou­ple of days in L.A., and there would be beaches aplenty to visit.

I stopped again in Monterey, where I debated spend­ing the night, but since it was only 3 in the after­noon, I decided to knock out more of the drive to L.A. and ended up at a Motel 6 in Morro Bay, which could be mis­taken for what I imag­ine a coastal town in north­ern New England to be: foggy and smelling of salt­wa­ter and dead fish.

Posted in The Big Trip | Tagged , , , , , , , | View Comments

Day 17: Sick as a dog

I woke up feel­ing like hell, so it took longer than expected to pull myself together and get out the door to explore San Francisco. My first stop, the num­ber one thing on my list, was to visit the 21st Amendment Brewery at 563 2nd Street, to sam­ple their Hell Or High Watermelon Wheat beer.

21st Amendment

21st Amendment

Continue read­ing

Posted in The Big Trip | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | View Comments